A Community Venture in Masaya Volcano National Park

When Paulette offered Colin and I the opportunity to join her in visiting the community living within Masaya Volcano National Park, we literally leapt at the opportunity - right into the back of the Mariposa pick-up truck. To bear witness to the birth of a project that mutually benefits the environment and local community, to see all of the potential for future growth, those are the moments that inspire Colin and I to do what we do.

To reach the community, we took a packed-dirt back road through the barrios. Some of these neighborhoods border the park and may also be fruitful partners for future efforts to benefit the park and its local communities. For example, Paulette may discuss with these families whether they have sufficient wood for cooking without relying on the supply within in the park. If they are running short, she can further investigate raising money to purchase more fuel efficient eco-stoves for the families most in need.

The back roads have a different flavor than the towns we have grown accustomed to passing through. The pace of life seems slower without the constant honking of the microbuses and we see few other vehicles. Paulette indicates points of interest: here, a giant Sabre tree with a majestic spread of branches and vines, there, a cemetery where she has seen far too many child-size graves.

As we near the community, we're treated to a tremendous view of the jungle that is Masaya Volcano National Park and the glint of the lagoon. Gonzolo, our driver, deftly negotiates the last treacherous stretch of road and we arrive at the community and Lake Masaya.

We immediately walk over to the lakeshore to find locals splashing and relaxing. Only a decade ago, this would have been an impossible sight. Until recently, the city of Masaya across the river had emptied their trash into the lake and you could barely see water for all of the garbage floating on the surface. Today, though there are still some remnants of Saint's Week celebrations, the beach is remarkably cleaner.

As we walk into the community, we're met by the wife of Carlos, a park ranger that Paulette had planned to chat with today. He happens to be working, but his wife with a toddler in tow leads us into the front yard of a home. Chair after chair of every variety is brought out among the dogs and chickens in anticipation of the meeting.

Soon we are introduced to Mariksa, the head leader of the community. She indicates that Manuel and Nixon, other leaders of the community are now arriving. Greetings and handshakes are exchanged by all and Mariksa begins to tell us more about their community of 13 families living along the lake.

When it comes time for Paulette's turn to speak, she deftly keeps the discussion open, sharing her ideas and inviting the community to offer their thoughts on what types of projects would be most helpful. She stresses that all decisions should be made by the community and determined by what they believe will be best.

When Paulette mentions the opportunity for sustainable tourism, the community responds enthusiastically. The two men nod vigorously at the prospect of leading guests around on horseback. Carlos' wife mentions nearby petroglyphs that might be of interest and that several members of the community are familiar with the birds and English, making them prime candidates for birding tours. Paulette offers the possibility that the Mariposa could fundraise and provide a boat for lake tours. Together, they plan out a perfect tourist activity, complete with lunch cooked in the village.

The conversation continues, exploring the possibility of homestays in the community and a reforestation volunteer project. Paulette highlights the opportunity to sell any artisanal products produced in the village and offers some worms from her organic composting project should the community want to start their own.

Early in the conversation, Paulette describes the potential to reduce the need for firewood with more efficient stoves, but they assure us they have enough dry wood to meet their needs and the community does not depend on wood from deeper within the park. Mariksa explains that this land is their life and they have lived here and looked after this natural area for long before it was declared a park. Despite their long standing role as stewards of the land, they have never been engaged in discussions by the director or officers of the park or offered any payment for all of the tourists passing through their backyard.

The meeting wraps up with plans for community members to visit the Mariposa and see if any projects there spark further ideas. An additional meeting with more members of the community is set for next week, to allow everyone in the community the chance to participate in planning. With only 13 families in the community, there is a potential role for every family in the tourism project. One family can lead the horse ride, another the boat tour, another can prepare lunch, another sell artisanal goods, etc.

With the project taking shape before our eyes, we hopped back into the truck. We share the space with foot-long dark brown pods, full of seeds to be started at the Mariposa and grown for the reforestation project. Just like that a Mariposa project is born and we drive into the sunset!

*apologies for any misspellings of names or mistranslations from Spanish

Paulette points out features of interest within the park.

A beautiful old tree we saw from the road.

Outdoor pool tables in one of the neighborhoods.

The group heads down to the lakefront near the community.

Just a decade ago this lake was covered in trash.

Ruth and Ishmael discussing the lake's recovery.

A community leader arriving to join the meeting.

Everyone shaking hands at the beginning of the meeting.

Mariksa, the head leader of the community.

The group deep in fruitful discussion.

Beautiful saddle.

A lovely lady from the village who happily showed us her kitchen.

An old clay water vessel.

Driving back during the sunset.

Seeds from the community for the reforestation project.

 

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Time to Meet the Family

Over the past two weeks, Colin and I have been getting into the rhythm of life in a Nicaraguan home. Our homestay family is incredibly sweet. From day one, they have made us feel incredibly welcome and patiently joked and talked with us in our rudimentary Spanish. They have had over 20 previous students stay with them and are real veterans of the process, quick to offer tips on a bucket shower or help us find the best local shop to buy a refresca.

We're staying with the family of Gonzalo, one of the drivers at our Spainish school. His wife, Miriam, is a tremendous cook and Colin and I have marveled at how perfectly she executes Nicaraguan staples like gallo pinto, fried eggs, sweet plantains, and chicken soup. Miriam and Gonzalo have two daughters in the house, Valesca who is 18 and in high school, and Yadalena, who is in her mid-twenties. Yadalena's husband, Chepe, and 3 year old son Eric complete the household.

Eric provides a constant supply of smiles and entertainment. He tip-toes around the house, finger over his mouth, motioning us to shush as he sneaks up quite obviously on his relatives. Upon discovery, he winds up his arms like a cartoon character and begins to run. Though we cannot understand most of his toddler Spanish, we all have plenty of fun playing together in the evenings.

It's humbling and amusing to learn even simple tasks from scratch here. For example, my first attempt to do laundry enlisted the entire family. After gathering around the cement washboard to observe me, they told the three year old to take me to a shop for laundry detergent. Our mission was successful - he knew the route and I carried him over the mud puddle. Miriam patiently showed me the washing technique, even Gonzolo stepped him to demonstrate, but alas after watching me everyone was so worried I was going to bloody my fingers that they asked me to watch Miriam more before trying again. I consented, but next time I'll have to get in some more practice!

My first instinct here is to accept everything the way it is, to keep the role of observer. I don't seek to judge what I have not experienced. However at times it can be difficult to decide whether to comment or intervene such as when the family starts the fire with plastic bottles and then stands around the fire cooking and inhaling the fumes. I checked that they understood it was harmful to their health and accepted that was the role I could responsibly and respectfully play at this moment in time.

We've really enjoying the refresca culture. We've been savoring the holiday staple of pinolio - a beverage made from toasted corn and cacao, sugar, and water. Last weekend, the family made delectable juice from fresh pineapple and star fruit. Peeling the skins seems to be essential to the flavor. Additionally, we've become frequent patrons of the ice cream shop where we can get ice cold cacao or ginger drinks in a to-go-bag for less than fifty cents. Today we were adventurous and managed to persuade the shop to mix a beverage of half ginger and half cacao. The perfect refreshment for a blazing hot day!

Thanks for sharing photos Colin!

Eric enjoying some hot wheels we brought. I guess little boys liking cars is a safe bet here too.

Our yard/washroom.

Gonzolo taking a break.

Miriam and Valesca posing.

Miriam laughing in the outdoor dining room.

Eric holding cacao.

Raw sugar.

Bringing the toasted corn and cacao a mile up the road to be ground into pinolio mix.

Gonzolo with one of the dogs that help him guard a school for disabled children.

Everyone at a service for all saints week - fiesta like atmosphere!

One of Eric's cousins who lives next door.

For all saints week, many people shaped palm fronds into crosses and had them blessed to hang over their doorways.

Gonzolo modeling his hat and machete.

Cousins enjoying some ices.

Starfruit!

First step of making juice: wash the fruit.

Gonzolo slices off the skins.

Juicing the fruit.

Blender time.

Straining pulp.

Add sugar.

Cheers!

Finished product!

Eric posing with the Mariposa van.

Eric pretending to drive.

Hanging out with the family.

 

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Forest Fire at Masaya Volcano National Park

Colin and I arrive at Masaya Volcano National Park three days after the forest fire to find the ground still smoking hot. Roughly 3 sq km, almost 5% of the park, was lost during this forest fire, the largest in the history of the park. Charred black earth stretches out from the crater, interrupted only by the white ash piles of what were recently plants and trees.

Our courageous park guide leads us deeper into the burn. First we pass only scorched stumps, but soon we begin to see trees with healthy, green crowns. However, we soon lose hope for these trees' recovery, once our guide digs into the earth to reveal the burnt root systems. These trees are the standing dead. Without roots, these trees will soon wither and die. Their loss will be felt most directly by the park's many animals that depend on these trees for habitat and food. More subtly, the entire forest will be hurt by the absence of the key ecosystem services provided by these trees such as erosion prevention. Healthy roots are the glue that holds nutrients and seeds in the soil to nourish the next generation of plants. Without roots, all of the soil's nutrients and seeds will be washed away during the coming rainy season. The ecosystem will have to start from scratch, awaiting brave, pioneering seeds to float in and take hold.

The 17 park rangers and one hundred volunteers, fought tenaciously to limit the damage. They fought the fire entirely by hand with water containers on their backs and shovels in their hands. Our guide leads us down a wide track dug in a mere hours to hold back the flames. Days later, park guides are still taking 12 hour shifts walking the path to guard against new fires, flaming up from underground. Before we continue walking, our guide stoops to deepen a trench against this eventuality.

This ecosystem well deserves the valiant efforts of the park guards and volunteers. Born of volcanic rock, this unique tropical dry forest developed over centuries. The first arrivals on the lunar landscape were lichens, which slowly and surely decomposed the rock to create little pockets of soil where the first seeds could take hold. As plants grow and die, they enrich the soil and increase water retention. Eventually, trees can take hold, creating shade and habitat, which animals soon discover. In addition to being unique, Masaya national park cradles an abundance of life including white-face monkeys, iguanas, deer, birds,and bats. The park boast 40 species of mammals, 29 species of snakes, 200 species of butterflies, 93 species of birds (20 migratory), and 500 species of plants. In the lava tunnels near the crater, over 25,000 bats of five different species roost each day to pour forth as a surreal wind at sunset.

Some species will be hit harder by the fire than others. Three of the species most harmed by the fire are Chocoyos (beautiful green parakeets), iguanas, and armadillos. The park's chocoyos are well known for nesting in steep and sulphuric slopes of the active craters to avoid predators. During the day, they venture out of this wasteland to seek food in the verdant forest, where their striking green feathers provide the perfect camouflage. However as they fly over the burnt, black forest, they are easily spotted by predators. The iguanas will be heavily impacted because the fire struck during their reproductive season and their eggs will be easily visible to poachers and predators in the burn. Additionally, many of the yellow oleanders the iguanas prefer to eat were destroyed in the fire. The armadillos were most directly impacted during the fire itself, unable to flee the smoke quickly enough.

Despite many casualties of the fire, we still find many signs of life. Some trees have a white, milky sap that renders them resistant to the fire. Colin spots a lizard savoring his freshly caught breakfast on a burnt tree stump. Birds call from above. With the coming rains, this area will soon be covered in grass. No one knows how long it will take for this ecosystem to return to what it once was, but life will continue here.

Later during our visit, we hop in the back of a pick up to get a ride from some rangers up to the top of the ridge to better view the extent of the fire damage. The road cuts starkly between yellow grassland and incinerated earth. Along this path, rangers held the line preventing the fire from entering the rich and verdant Masaya coldera that has taken hundreds of years to develop into a cradle of life.

From the top of the ridge, we spot some smoke, not from a forest fire, but part of the nearby community in the park. Many people in the community are dependent on local wood for their cook fires. However, the wood in the park is protected from collection. Some community members frustrated with the prohibition and seeking a means to communicate their need for this basic necessity are believed to be behind some of the recent fires. Paulette and the Mariposa hope to identify the families most dependent on the wood and raise funds to buy them eco-cookers, which require less wood to burn. In the future she also hopes to employ local people in sustainable tourism projects around the park to mutually benefit the community and the natural treasures of the park.

We thank our guides and finish our tour beneath the cross above the Santiago Crater. The cross was originally placed there by the Spanish to prevent the devil from crossing out of what was believed to be a gate to hell. Looking at the cross now, I consider all of the impossible things humans have believed can be easily controlled such as volcanos and devils with a cross. On the flip side though there are such small actions we can take to prevent catastrophic damage. Providing eco-cookers and tourism training can help turn the tide in protecting this ecosystem and world heritage site for future generations. I wish Paulette buckets of success with this project and I will be sure to follow its progress in the future!

 

We arrive at the burn to find the ground still smoking hot.

Our guide digs into the earth to show us how the far spread under the earth.

We head deeper into the burn where some trees are still intact.

Close up of desiccated leaves.

Charred trees.

A nest in still green crowns.

The park guards and volunteers rapidly cleared this path to prevent the fire from spreading further.

Seeds in a scorched tree.

Seeds like the one above will be washed away during the coming rainy season.

Snake bones found in the burn.

Signs of life in the burn! A lizard enjoying breakfast.

This type of tree has some fire resistance thanks to its milky sap.

A shot of the area worst hit.

The grassy area above burned in a fire last year and gives us an idea of what we would expect to find in the burnt area next year.

The yellow oleander that iguanas prefer to eat.

Here the volunteers and park guards held the line and fought the fire back.

We stop at the top of the ridge for a better view and to take some notes.

 

Big picture view of the damage framed by one live and one dead tree.

Camouflage!

A ranger indicates smoke near a community.

Heading up to the cross.

 

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